Risotto With Coffee and Mushrooms

I love making risotto when friends and family come to visit.  Although it requires time and some stirring, it works beautifully for special occasions and small parties.  Risotto with mixed mushrooms or porcini mushrooms is a classic Italian dish served in central and northern regions when mushrooms are in season.  I add espresso, which adds complexity to the dish and makes it more contemporary.

Chef it Up:  Once you master this dish, you can quickly fry a small amount of capers and add to the finished dish for some added texture and complexity.

Servings: 6

Ingredients

  • 8 cups vegetable, chicken, or beef stock
  • ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 cup chopped onions or shallots
  • Kosher salt to taste
  • 12 ounces mixed mushrooms, such as cremini, shiitake or chanterelle
  • 2 cups Carnaroli or Arborio rice
  • ½ cup dry white wine
  • 1 tablespoon espresso  powder
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into bits
  • ½ cup freshly grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano Reggiano

Instructions

  1. Bring the stock to a simmer in a saucepan.  
  2. Heat a large Dutch oven over medium heat and add the olive oil.  When the skillet is hot, add the onions and cook until they soften, about 3-4 minutes. 
  3. Add the mushrooms and season with salt to taste.  Cook for about 6 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are wilted and golden.
  4. Add the rice and stir until it’s coated with the oil.  Pour in the wine and cook, stirring, until it is absorbed – about 1 to 2 minutes.  
  5. Ladle in enough hot stock to cover the rice and adjust the heat so the risotto is simmering.  Continue to cook until all the liquid is absorbed, stirring periodically.
  6. Continue to add hot stock in small batches so that you are just covering the risotto, and cook until each successive batch has been absorbed.  Continue until the rice is creamy but still al dente.  The cooking time for this dish is approximately 18 minutes.
  7. Once your risotto is al dente, stir in the espresso power so that it dissolves. 
  8. Remove from heat and vigorously stir in the butter until it’s absorbed. Sprinkle with the grated cheese and stir quickly so that all is incorporated. 
  9. Season with additional salt if needed, and serve the risotto in shallow bowls.

Risotto with Pear, Grana Padano and Balsamic Vinegar

When I worked as the Executive Chef of Felidia in New York City, the most popular dish was the “Cacio e Pere,” or Pear and Pecorino Ravioli.  It was a delicate pasta dish with a lively blend of shredded ripe pear, 3-6 month aged Pecorino Romano, Grana Padano, and mascarpone. 

At home and during cooking demonstrations, I prefer to use this flavor combination in a risotto dish.  If you wish to serve a sophisticated restaurant dish, a drizzle of traditional balsamic vinegar and freshly cut celery and celery leaves are added at the end. You can also choose to use a balsamic vinegar or reduction.

Servings: 6

Ingredients

  • 8 cups of vegetable stock
  • ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 cup of finely chopped onion
  • 1 cup sliced leeks, white and pale green parts only (washed; save the rest for a future stock)
  • Kosher salt
  • 2 cups Carnaroli or Arborio rice
  • ½ cup dry white wine
  • 2 medium Barlett pears, peeled and grated 
  • 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into cubes
  • 1 cup freshly grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano Reggiano
  • 1 cup thinly sliced celery and celery leaves
  • Freshly ground pepper to taste
  • Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale (*see note if you prefer to use a reduction of regular balsamic vinegar)

Instructions

  1. Bring the vegetable stock to a simmer in a saucepan. 
  2. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a wide 3 to 4-quart braising pan. When the olive oil is hot, add the onion and leeks and cook for about 4-5 minutes, until wilted and golden.  Season with salt to taste.  
  3. Add the rice and stir gently.  Pour in the wine and cook, stirring constantly, until the wine is absorbed – about 1-2 minutes.
  4. Ladle in just enough hot vegetable stock to cover the rice and adjust the heat so the risotto is simmering.
  5. Allow the stock to be absorbed, then continue to add hot stock in small batches – enough to moisten the rice completely – cooking and stirring continuously so each successive batch is absorbed. 
  6. After about 10 minutes, add in half of the pears and stir.  Continue to add the hot stock in small batches as you did before for another 8 minutes, or until the risotto is creamy but still al dente.  It there is a little stock left over, that is fine.
  7. Remove the pan from the heat, and vigorously stir in the butter in small teaspoon-size chunks until absorbed.  Add the remaining pear, Grana Padano or Parmigiano Reggiano and stir until you have a nice, creamy mixture.   
  8. Serve the risotto in large, deep bowls, topped with freshly ground pepper.  I also like to add a few pieces of sliced celery and celery leaves for some added crunch.  Add a drizzle of traditional balsamic vinegar to make it really special.  (If you prefer to make a balsamic reduction, see the note below.)

Note:  To make a more economical balsamic reduction, simply pour 1 cup balsamic vinegar into a skillet and boil until reduced to ⅓ cup.  Cool completely before you use it. You can keep it in the refrigerator for several weeks.

Pasta with Basil and Pine Nut Pesto

I make pesto quite often for my family.   It is the one green sauce that my youngest son, Luca, will eat daily if given the opportunity. 

The classic pesto sauce originated in Genoa, Italy, along the Italian Riviera where basil grows abundantly.  The classic way to serve pesto in that area is with pasta, potatoes and green beans with a trofie or trenette shaped pasta (which might be difficult to find here).  I like long pasta like spaghetti with my pesto, or fusilli, which holds the sauce well.   In fact, I really like the taste and texture of gluten-free lentil pasta with classic pesto. It is a favorite of my daughter’s.  

Pesto can be made ahead of time and refrigerated in a sealed container, topped with a bit of olive oil, for approximately 2 weeks.

Chef it Up:  Once you master the classic basil and pine nut pesto, you might want to toast some extra pine nuts and serve them on top like I did here.  It adds a great texture.  You can also build onto the recipe by trying the traditional Genovese rendition that adds potatoes and green beans to the pasta dish.  Do you like other herbs and nuts?  Substitute mint for the basil and almonds for the pine nuts, which is a favorite of mine.

Servings: 6

Ingredients

  • 1 pound pasta (spaghetti, fusilli, and penne work well with pesto)
  • 4 cups loosely packed fresh basil leaves
  • ¼ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for the pasta water
  • 2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
  • 3 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted
  • 4 tablespoons freshly grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano Reggiano, plus more for serving
  • 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for grating

Instructions

  1.  Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.
  2.  In a food processor, combine the basil, salt, and garlic.  Add half of the olive oil and blend at low speed, stopping to press the basil down around the blades.  (The basil will form a paste).
  3. Add the pine nuts and pour in the remaining olive oil and blend until the nuts are finely ground.  Then add the cheese and blend again.
  4. Add the pasta to the pasta water and cook until al dente. 
  5. Remove the pasta with a slotted spoon or tongs, and add to a medium size bowl with the pesto. Mix together until the pasta is well-coated. 
  6. Add a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and a little extra cheese if desired.  Note: Never heat your pesto!

Pasta with Simple Tomato Sauce

In an ideal world, I would head to my garden in late August and harvest sweet cherry tomatoes, then I’d cook them into a sauce that could be bottled and used throughout the year.  This is what my parents did in Sicily.  The reality is that I do not have their garden, their soil, nor their climate.  However, a delicious, simple tomato sauce can be made from a can of good quality Italian plum tomatoes – preferably San Marzano. 

Once you master it, you can build on it.  You can add onions, spice it up with some peperoncino or a sprig or two of rosemary, or even add bacon or pancetta to it.  The variations are endless. For a smoother sauce, you can transfer the sauce to a tall plastic container and gently pulse the sauce with an immersion blender.

Servings: 6

Ingredients

  • 1 pound of pasta (I prefer long pasta like spaghetti or bucatini, or a short, small pasta like penne with this simple tomato sauce)
  • ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil, plus more for a final drizzle
  • 4-6 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed (you can whack them with the palm of your hand or the flat side of a knife)
  • One 35-ounce can Italian plum tomatoes, preferably San Marzano
  • Kosher salt to taste, plus more for the pasta water
  • 6-10 fresh basil leaves, torn into small pieces at the last minute
  • ½ cup of grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano Reggiano

Instructions

  1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil for the pasta.
  2. Heat the oil in a 2 to 3 quart saucepan over medium heat.  Add the garlic and cook for about 2 minutes. 
  3. Pour the tomatoes and their juices into the saucepan and, with a potato masher, whisk, or wooden spoon, gently mash the tomatoes and stir.  
  4. Bring the sauce to a slight boil and season lightly with salt.
  5. Lower the heat to a simmer and continue to break up the tomatoes while cooking for an additional 20 minutes.  Remove the garlic cloves.
  6. Meanwhile, add the pasta to your boiling water, timing it carefully so the pasta is barely al dente when the sauce is ready.
  7. Stir the basil into the sauce approximately 2 minutes before the sauce is finished.  Taste and season with more salt if necessary.  If your sauce needs a little sweetness, you can add a pinch of sugar or a slight drizzle of honey and stir.  The quality of your canned tomato will determine whether that is necessary.
  8. Transfer your al dente pasta with tongs directly into the sauce in the skillet and toss to coat the pasta with the sauce. 
  9. Add the grated cheese and an extra drizzle of good quality extra virgin olive oil before serving in a shallow bowl.

Whole Roasted Cauliflower “Cacio e Pepe”

I love whole roasted cauliflower and romanesco with good quality olive oil, salt, freshly ground pepper, and grated pecorino. If you don’t have pecorino in the house, feel free to use Grana Padano or Parmigiano Reggiano cheese for a milder flavor. It is so simple to make, and there is typically some left over for the next day.

Servings: 4-6

Ingredients

  • 1 large head cauliflower
  • 2 garlic cloves, whole, with skin on
  • 5-6 sprigs of thyme
  • 5-6 chive stems
  • 5-6 sage leaves
  • 6 tablespoons of extra virgion olive oil
  • Salt to taste
  • 3/4 cup freshly grated pecorino cheese
  • Freshly ground pepper to taste

Instructions

  1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
  2. Rinse and pat dry the cauliflower. Remove the outer leaves and cut off the bottom so that it is flat. Rinse your herbs.
  3. Add the cauliflower to a Dutch oven or medium sized heavy bottomed pot.
  4. Add two cloves garlic, herbs, three tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil, and salt to taste.
  5. Add 1/2 cup of water, cover, and place in the oven for 35-40 minutes.
  6. Insert a long toothpick or skewer into the cauliflower to see if it is soft and ready to pull out of the oven. If not, allow to remain for another 5-10 minutes until soft.
  7. Uncover the cauliflower. Turn on the broiler, and continue to cook for another 7-10 minutes until the cauliflower is golden. If you prefer that it is more charred, you can leave it in for a few extra minutes.
  8. When the cauliflower is golden and tender, remove from the oven. Allow to rest for 5 minutes.
  9. Slice the cauliflower into thick wedges. Sprinkle with sea salt, grated pecorino and freshly ground pepper. Finish with the remaining extra virgin olive oil and serve.

Tuscan Tomato and Bread Salad (Panzanella)

Servings: 6

Ingredients

  • 8 cups of toasted country style bread, cut into 1/2 inch cubes (you can also use country style bread that is 1-2 days old) 
  • 2 pounds ripe tomatoes, cored, seeded, and cut into chunks (about 4 cups)
  • 1 medium red onion, peeled and cut into thin slices
  • 2 Persian cucumbers OR 1 regular cucumber, sliced
  • ½ cup extra virgin olive oil
  • ¼ cup red wine vinegar
  • Kosher salt
  • ½ cup fresh basil leaves, coarsely shredded, plus a few whole leaves reserved

Instructions

  1. Toss the bread, tomatoes, onion, and cucumbers in a large bowl until well mixed. 
  2. Drizzle the olive oil and vinegar over the salad, and toss to mix thoroughly. 
  3. Season with sealt.
  4. Let sit for about 15-20 minutes, until the dressing moistens the bread
  5. When ready to serve, sprinkle with the basil, season again with salt, and toss gently, and serve.  Add a sprig of basil before serving.

Lasagna “Semplice”

This delicious lasagna is not only inspired by my mother’s recipe, it is also incredibly simple and uses no-boil lasagna noodles. It is much lighter than many lasagna dishes that you find here in America. There is no meat, and I use cream instead of bechamel. You can also make this lasagna with bolognese sauce if you prefer to have a little protein.

Servings: 8

Ingredients

  • 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 6 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
  • Two 28-ounce cans whole San Marzano tomatoes, crushed by hand
  • Kosher Salt
  • 2 large sprigs fresh basil
  • 1 cup heavy cream
  • 15 sheets no-boil lasagna noodles (about one 9-ounce box)
  • 4 cups freshly grated low-moisture mozzarella (about 1 pound)
  • 2 ½ cups freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano or Grana Padano

Instructions

  1. For the sauce, heat a large Dutch oven over medium heat, and add the olive oil.  When the oil is hot, add the garlic, and let sizzle until just golden, about 1 minute.  Add the crushed tomatoes, mash with a potato masher and season with salt.
  2. Simmer until flavorful and slightly thickened, about 20 minutes.  Add the basil leaves in the last 2-3 minutes while the sauce cooks. Discard the garlic cloves and the basil sprigs. 
  3. Add the creamand simmer until the sauce comes together, 3-4 minutes.  Season again with salt to taste.  You should have 6 to 7 cups of sauce.
  4. To assemble the lasagna, preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.  Spread about a cup of sauce in the bottom of a 9-by-13 inch baking dish. 
  5. Cover the sauce with three noodles (there will be extra space around the noodles, which is fine; they will expand as they absorb the sauce). 
  6. Spread another cup of sauce over the noodles, then sprinkle with 1 cup mozzarella and ½ cup of the grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano Reggiano.  Top with another layer of noodles. 
  7. Continue with sauce, mozzarella, Grana Padano or Parmigiano Reggiano, layering in the same manner, until you have five or six layers of noodles. Make sure you top the final with sauce and grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano Reggiano (not the mozzarella).
  8. Cook the lasagna for approximately 30 minutes until all of the sauce is absorbed, and the lasagna is firm. If the lasagna needs a little extra color, turn the oven up to 375 F and cook for an additional 5-10 minutes until you achieve the desired color.
  9. Let the lasagna rest out of the oven for at least 30 minutes before serving.

American Refrigerator Rolls

These rolls are inspired by my mother-in-law’s famous refrigerator rolls.  She made them twice a month and undercooked them just slightly, put them in large sealable bags and added them to her large freezer in the basement.  She pulled them out every night to heat up before dinner and had batches of them when her six children and 30+ grandchildren came home for the holidays.  Although my wife’s family loved smothering them with butter and eating them with their dinner meal, I like them with a drizzle of good extra virgin olive oil, as a sandwich roll, or even for hamburgers.

Makes 52 rolls (so you can freeze some and enjoy later!)

Ingredients

  • 1 1/2 tablespoons insta yeast
  • 1 teaspoon sugar
  • 1 cup lukewarm water
  • 2 cups whole milk, scalded
  • ⅔ cup Canola oil
  • 4 teaspoons salt
  • 2 beaten eggs
  • 8-9 cups flour

Instructions

  1. In a medium size bowl, soften the yeast and 1 teaspoon of the sugar in the cup of lukewarm water.
  2. Allow the scalded milk to cool so that it is lukewarm.   Add it to the bowl and then add the oil, remaining sugar, salt and the water with the sugar and the yeast.
  3. Add the egg to the mix and beat well.
  4. Remove the mixture from the bowl and begin to knead by hand in a large bowl. You can also use a using a mixer with a bread dough hook. 
  5. Once the dough is soft and the ingredients are incorporated, let the dough rise for an hour.
  6. Flour your surface and begin to shape the rolls into small balls, about 3 inches in diamter.
  7. Bake a 350 degrees for approximately 20 minutes until golden brown.

Rice Noodles with Cherry Tomatoes and Chili Oil

Pasta is the noodle of choice in my household, but my family loves a good rice or soba noodle dish at least once a week.   I began cooking more gluten-free noodles at home for myself and my daughter since we seem to have a slight intolerance to gluten.  This  dish combines a few Italian flavors with a few not-so-Italian flavors that I actually like to use regularly.  In addition, I love the cherry tomato/soy combination.

Servings: 4

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. Rinse the rice noodles in a bowl of cold water to remove the extra starch. 
  2. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.
  3. Add the noodles and allow to boil for about 4-5 minutes, so that the noodles are still al dente. The amount of time you allow them to boil will vary slightly by brand. When draining the noodles, reserve about 1/2 cup of the water.
  4. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat.  Add the garlic and stir gently until it’s soft and golden, about 2-3 minutes.  Add the sliced chili; cook and stir gently, until softened for about 1 minute.  
  5. Add the cherry tomatoes, soy sauce, and ¼ cup of the hot noodle water and stir together for an additional minute.   
  6. Add the drained noodles to the skillet, and toss to coat with the sauce.  Add the pistachios (or other nuts) and season with additional salt if needed. 
  7. Turn off the heat and add freshly torn basil leaves.   
  8. Serve in medium size deep bowls.  Drizzle with a little extra virgin olive oil and if desired, black sesame seeds.

CHEF IT UP: To make this dish extra creamy and full of flavor (but without the soy sauce), remove basil leaves from two sprigs of basil and blanch them right before you start the dish.   Using a regular or immersion blender, mix the blanched basil leaves with ½ cup of cold water and ½ cup of extra virgin olive oil.  Add the mixture right after you cook the cherry tomatoes, disregard the soy sauce, and proceed with the remaining instructions. 

Homemade Ricotta

I used to make house-made ricotta daily at Felidia, and sometimes would make it on weekends with my daughter at home.  I love it on toasted bread with some seasonal fruit for a late breakfast.  I also like to serve it as a snack before dinner, or I’ll add a dollop to certain pastas and soups for some added freshness. For the best results, use organic dairy.

Servings: Makes 2-3 cups

Ingredients

  • 2 quarts whole milk
  • 1 cup heavy cream
  • ½ cup buttermilk
  • ½ teaspoon kosher salt
  • 3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice.

Instructions

  1. Line a large sieve with a double layer of damp cheesecloth. Set it over a bowl. 
  2. Add the dairy and salt to a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Slowly bring the mixture to a boil.  
  3. Add the lemon juice, and reduce the heat to the low.  Begin to stir your ricotta mixture gently for two minutes until the mixture begins to curdle.
  4. Remove from heat, and let the ricotta sit without stirring for an additional 5 minutes.
  5. Pour the mixture through the cheesecloth, and let it drain for 30 minutes. The homemade ricotta is what you have left in the cheesecloth. 
  6. Chill until ready to use.

Note:  Homemade ricotta is delicious for breakfast, but I enjoy it anytime of day. Try adding a dollop of freshly made ricotta to a spicy tomato sauce or a spring vegetable soup for a little extra flavor and freshness.